Camino de Santiago: Challenges
Stage 5 and 6 - Variante Espiritual
Hello,
In this series of articles, I invite you to walk beside me as I recount the stages of my Camino de Santiago pilgrimage.
In this article, I want to delve into the challenges that the Camino places in our path, shaping both body and mind. While sharing the details of the Variant Espiritual stages.
💪 Physical
Undeniably, the Camino presents the body with rigorous demands. Walking numerous kilometres each day, day after day, is not the usual routine of the average office worker. Add to that the weight of the backpack, and the physical toll becomes evident. The journey necessitates resilience and perseverance as we press on, step by step, and pay attention to our bodies’ capacities.
🧠 Mental
The Camino offers some solitude periods providing with opportunity for introspection. However, I have come to realize that true revelations are not merely granted by the act of walking itself. Instead, they emerge through the work and reflection done after each day or upon completing the entire journey. The mental challenges came from managing the tiredness of the body, which yearns for rest, and the stress due to the uncertainty of changing plans and venturing into unfamiliar places.
🌦️ Weather
Walking long stretches under the scorching sun or striving to reach the destination amid heavy rainfall is far from the ideal scenario. Yet, the Camino teaches us a valuable lesson in acceptance and adaptability. We learn to be ready for whatever the day brings forth, embracing the challenges posed by the elements.
The Variante Espiritual consist of 3 stages (image):
STAGE 5 Pontevedra → Armenteira (21km)
We leave Pontevedra and after some kilometres, we find the bifurcation point to go to the Variante Espiritual.
The first major spot is Poio’s Monastery. We arrive there at 9h45, since it opens at 10h we decided to wait in order to visit. It has a mosaic with the Camino Frances from Paris to Santiago, symbol of the extensive journey undertaken by countless pilgrims before us.
Then we descend to Combarro, arriving at Pontevedra’s river, the last stop before the climb until Armenteira. It was around 11h30, too early to have lunch and not wanting to make the same mistake as in Lambruja, we went to a nearby supermarket to get supplies. We find a shaded spot a few kilometres up, where water and rest rejuvenate our spirits for the impending climb to Armenteira.
The ascent is a test, both physically and mentally. My recurring shin splints make every step painful, challenging my determination. The midday sun and lack of shade make it even more arduous. The Camino also consists of this moment, the difficulty is not on the body to endure the long walks, day after day, but to mentally manage the pain the body is put through. As my body endures, my mind questions the purpose of this endeavour: "Why are we doing this? How easy it would be to give up?" the little voice in me whispers.
However I remind myself that this journey was a choice, one I am grateful for, and blessed to have the health and body capable of undertaking. Plus the time availability and the motivation for it.
As I press on, my father, too, struggles in his own way. Externalizing and complaining about it can be helpful or contra intuitive, depending on the other person and how we address the situation.
So I did not complain in a way like winning about the situation. I tried to be more playful instead and say ironically “Go do the Spiritual Route, they say, it is going to be beautiful”.
In this cases is important to reframe the situation. If we can see beauty in a situation like that, we can see it in other ways. And it is in these moments of shared hardship that I realize everyone suffers, each burden unique and deserving of compassion.
The attempt to develop a sense of humor and to see things in a humorous light is some kind of a trick learned while mastering the art of living. (…) To draw an analogy: a man's suffering is similar to the behavior of gas. If a certain quantity of gas is pumped into an empty chamber, it will fill the chamber completely and evenly, no matter how big the chamber. Thus suffering completely fills the human soul and conscious mind, no matter whether the suffering is great or little. Therefore the 'size' of human suffering is absolutely relative.”
From Man’s Search for Meaning by Viktor Frankl
The climb to Armenteira is not without its rewards. Along the way, we encounter viewpoints offering breathtaking vistas of the river below. Finally, we reach the welcoming embrace of Armenteira Monastery. The Albergue awaits just a few kilometres further.
There is a nice restaurant near the Monastery where we can get some nice food and I take the opportunity to go to the Pilgrim blessing done in the Monastery. Though I don't associate the Camino with a religious journey and more with exploring nature and reflective adventure, I am humbled by the experience.
I also saw a lot of other pilgrims there, that at first impression did not consider them to be religious and was nice to have these believes challenged and my perspective changed.
STAGE 6 Armenteira → Vila Arousa (24 km)
This day starts with the awaited Ruta da Pedra e da Auga (Stone and Water Route).
Right after the sunrise, we descend following the water, which included beautiful sights of small cascades and mills along the way. We did most of the path in silence appreciating nature, which allowed for contemplation, turning this stage into a spiritual and meditative experience.
A light rain begins, but the shelter of trees offers comfort. In contrast to the previous day, despite my shin splint pain persisting, a rhythmic flow consumes me as we traverse flat terrain. I was just absorbed by putting one step after another, emerge in my surroundings. We later pause at a cafe, hoping for the rain to subside before continuing.
As the day progresses, the rain intensifies and finding a place to eat or take shelter becomes challenging. Yet, we march on, fueled by the anticipation of reaching the Albergue in Vila Arousa. To manage this situation is good to look forward to arriving somewhere and have a nearby goal to reach. So, the focus was to see the beach, which would mean that the Albergue would be near. However, bad luck, once we reach the beach side, there were still 2 kilometres to get there, still under the heavy rain and wind near the beachside.
It is also part of the Pilgrim to put us through these more complicated moments.
Arriving at the Albergue, I reflect on the complexity of managing emotions during trying times. I knew that both I and my father were tired, wet, and momentarily annoyed, but I tried to be patient and resilient instead of complaining. It is through these difficult moments that Camino teaches us to confront ourselves and grow.
At the end of the day, the weather improved, allowing us to we explore the surroundings. It is sad that we arrive in that weather conditions because Vila Arousa is quite nice with sunny weather and would be great to spend the day at the beach.
STAGE 7 Vila Arousa → Padrón
In this stage, known as Translatio, a unique experience awaits – a boat ride along the Ulla River, the only maritime-fluvial Way of the Cross in the world. The boat gently glides over the river's surface, offering a peaceful journey to Padron.
While the challenges may seem daunting, I assure you that they are the threads that weave together the tapestry of the Camino experience. They test our physical limits, forge our mental fortitude, and reveal the profound beauty of embracing life's unpredictability.
Check out the other Stages:
Pontevedra → Armenteira (21 km)
Armenteira → Vila Arousa (24 km)
Vila Arousa → Padron → Santiago Compostela (25 km)
Weekly assessment:
🖊️ Writing
This article was prepared in the week after doing the Camino, as part of the series.
What I been doing:
📔 Continue reading Man’s Searching for Meaning by Viktor Frankl
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